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Advanced Rules

The Basic Rules to Diceland are a good starting point, but there's a lot more to this game. We decided to publish just the basic rules so players who wanted a simpler game could have one, and then let players pick and choose from the advanced rules below.

Whenever you play a game, especially when you host a tournament, make sure everyone knows which rules you want to play by. While the basic rules are essentially valid within the advanced rules, there are some elements (like deciding who goes first) that will be different.

All these advanced rules are optional, and should be agreed upon before the game begins. You can play with any assortment of rules you like. However, there is a single standard Advanced Rules Set for expert players. Everything listed on the advanced pages is part of this rules set unless it is specifically marked as "Optional."

The Advanced Rules are a work in progress, so please be sure to check back with us for updates, additions, and changes.

Army Construction:

To construct a Diceland army, you may spend no more than 30 points, or 30+X points if your army is all the same color. By "color" we mean the color of the die's edges, which is dictated by the "team" value on Side 1. By 'X" we mean the value of the smallest die in the army.

Some Examples: If you build a mixed army, using dice of different colors, you can spend no more than 30 points. If your team is all the same color, and the smallest die is 4 points, you can spend up to 34 points all together. If the smallest is 1, you can only spend 31. If the smallest die is 15 points, you can spend a much as 45 points. And if your smallest die is the Ogre (50 points) then it's a team all by itself.

For variety, you can agree on a larger or smaller number to base your army cost on. If you allow teams of 50+X, you can build an army with two Ogres. That is, if you allow Ogres at all.

The point cost of your army will determine who goes first. The player with the smallest army may decide who goes first. If there is a tie for smallest army, choose randomly who will go first. (This doesn't mean that you choose a random player, then let that player decide!)


If a die is "Unique" it will have a triangular frame around its side number. If it is not unique, it will have a circular frame here instead. Dice from Deep White Sea are unique, and so far nothing else is.

When building an army, you can't include more than one copy of a Unique die. In addition, it is not legal to throw a Unique die if there is another copy of that die in play.

Adding More Players:

If you want to play with 3 or more players, the rules aren't significantly different. The multi-player game is essentially a free-for-all, in which the objective is to be the first player to reach 50 points. (Some groups prefer to play to a higher total to offset the effects of high-scoring teams like the Jax.) Every opponent's die counts as an Enemy. You use the same crew construction and uniqueness rules as the 2-player game. The main difference is in table shape.

In the 2-player game, players can stand on opposite sides of any symmetrical table. With 3 players, you need a circular table (a 3- or 6-sided table would work, too). The players' baselines should form a triangle. A 4-player game can use a square table or a circular table, with the players' baselines forming a square. You can't use a rectangular table (longer than it is wide) because every player's side needs to be the same length. 5 or more players will need to use a circular table.

In four dimensions, six players could stand around a table with a cubic top. If you are playing this game in four dimensions, let us know.

Foul Penalties: When a player knocks a die off the table (other than the die he just threw) the point value of that die is added to every other player's score. This is an extension of the foul penalties in 2-player, and it does mean that multiple players can break 50 at once. To break the tie, we prefer to give the opponents their points in clockwise order, starting to the left of the player who made the foul. But that's just us getting picky.


If you wish to include terrain on your tabletop, in the form of obstacles, buildings, or platforms, you can include these rules.

For simple elevated terrain, you can build some hillocks out of books. The most important thing about elevated terrain is that there must be enough flat surface on top to actually land a die on, because there are no provisions for moving dice uphill.

Maneuvering: Every obstacle on the table, including the table edge, the dice, and all terrain pieces, is an obstacle to movement. If moving or taking damage would put a die in contact with any of these obstacles, that move is illegal (and that damage is fatal). However, the edge of a terrain object is not quite the same as the table edge. If a die is hanging off the edge of a "hill" but still resting flat, it is not considered to be off the table. Also, if a die lands leaning against an obstacle, but not another die, it is permitted an immediate "roll-off" which can be in any direction, like a Repair. If this roll-off moves the die to a flat position, it's safely on the table. This applies only to dice that are being thrown into play. If a die is already in play and manuevers/takes damage and this moves it off the obstacle, it dies.

Sight Lines: Sight Lines change in two ways in a terrain environment. First, all terrain objects are obstacles to sight (dice still are not), so in order for one die to see another, it must not only have it in its line of sight, but it must be physically able to see the target around all obstacles.

Second, elevation gives a sight bonus. Dice that are elevated can see all dice on their level and below. Dice on a lower level can't see dice on a higher level. This gives a serious advantage to any die lucky enough to land on a hill.